Two days in the Southwest of Ireland, exploring the Beara peninsula and the forests around Killarney

Drone photography of Killarney National Park Upper Lake in winter. Scenic landscape featuring the islands near Lord Brandon’s Cottage, Kerry mountains, and the Wild Atlantic Way hiking region in February. — Winter light over the Lakes of Killarney

Winter in Ireland often means dark days and much rain, mixed with a severe lack of sunshine. To escape this misery of the Irish winter here in the West, we decided to flee to a hopefully much warmer climate: the Southwest of Ireland.

Handheld evening shot of Killarney lakes from Molls Gap road, showing mountain silhouettes and a perfect water reflection. — View over the lakes of Killarney during blue hour

We had decided on Kenmare as our base for the first part of our mini-break. After leaving Galway late in the afternoon, we arrived in Killarney just after sunset. I took this photo of the lakes of Killarney on our way up the Moll's Gap towards Kenmare. Without getting too technical, it is simply amazing what modern cameras can do. The photo was taken handheld thanks to the excellent image stabilization that’s available in modern cameras. Not having to rely on a tripod for photos like the one above is very liberating.

Aerial drone view of Dinish Island near Dawros on the Beara Peninsula, showing the calm blue waters of Kenmare Bay. — Dinish Island

We left Kenmare early in the morning and headed toward the Healy Pass on the Beara Peninsula. Driving under a clear blue sky along the spectacular coastal road, we stopped just outside the village of Dawros. Sitting only a short distance from the shore, in the middle of the shimmering blue water, lies Dinish Island. It is a private residence with a storied history and remains one of the most striking sights along the route.

I was initially reluctant to bring the drone on this trip, but being able to capture perspectives like this made the extra weight well worth it. When it comes to travel photography, I usually prefer to pack as light as possible, no one enjoys lugging a heavy camera bag on long hikes. However, this time I decided to do things differently. Since we don’t get to go on trips like this often, I thought: why not bring the best kit I have? The professional lenses, the flagship camera, the drone…let’s bring everything! And in the end I was glad I had brought all that kit because I was able to get shots that would have been impossible to take with the travel kit.

Beara being Beara... photos like this are exactly why I was so keen to visit the peninsula. The weather here can change in an instant, one moment you are driving along the coastal road in glorious sunshine, and twenty minutes later, as you climb the famous Healy Pass, the atmosphere shifts completely. Suddenly, you find yourself looking at rainbows arcing over mountain lakes.

I captured this view as a panorama. The final image consists of 10 individual photos stitched together to create a high-resolution file that can be printed on a very large scale. The photo is available as a print to buy in my online shop.

A group of three black-faced sheep crossing a wet mountain road at the Healy Pass on the Beara Peninsula, with rugged, mist-covered mountains in the background.

The drive over the Healy Pass was a bit disappointing at first, as the landscape was completely swallowed by thick clouds…classic "Beara being Beara." However, once we reached the other side of the mountains, the view opened up. We spotted a small, narrow track near a beautiful old bridge, which looked like the perfect spot to stop and go for a little walk.

A narrow, winding gravel track leads into a wide mountain valley at Inchintaglin on the Beara Peninsula. The landscape features golden-brown grasses and a steep, rocky mountain ridge partially shrouded in low-hanging white clouds

A small, rushing waterfall flows over dark rocks and through golden mountain grass at Inchintaglin, captured near an old stone wall under a moody, overcast sky.

A historic arched stone bridge crosses a rocky stream at Inchintaglin on the Beara Peninsula, with the winding mountain road and mist-covered peaks visible in the background. — An old stone bridge near Inchintaglin on Beara

After following the track for about 1.5 kilometers, we encountered a flock of sheep waiting at the very end of the path. They seemed to be expecting something; unfortunately for them, we weren't carrying any treats.

A small group of sheep stands on a narrow green track at the base of a massive, rocky mountain at Inchintaglin. One sheep looks directly at the camera, surrounded by golden-brown mountain grass and dramatic, angled rock formations.

We were just about to head back to the car when we noticed a pickup truck making its way down the muddy track. As soon as the driver stepped out, he was instantly surrounded by the sheep!

A wide shot of an Irish sheep farmer standing in the middle of a large flock of sheep at Inchintaglin. He is holding a purple feed bag, and the sheep, marked with pink and blue dye, are huddled closely around him in a grassy mountain field.

After he finished the feeding, we chatted with him for a few minutes. He explained to us that at this time of year, he is trying to lure his sheep back down into the valley. They had been up grazing in the hills throughout the winter months.

A grey pickup truck drives away down a narrow, muddy, and water-filled track through the rugged Inchintaglin landscape. Faded yellow grass lines the path, leading toward mist-covered mountains in the distance.

One of the little tracks that lead into the bog

A view looking down two faint tire tracks through tall, blonde mountain grass toward a rocky, steep hillside at Inchintaglin. The dark, jagged rock formations of the mountain contrast with the soft textures of the winter grass.

We continued our journey toward Castletownbere, a major fishing port on the Beara Peninsula. Although we didn't have much time to explore the town properly, I managed to get some lovely photos of an old petrol station located right in the center of town.

A wide shot of O'Sullivan's Garage in Castletownbere, featuring a vibrant teal-colored building with white window frames and vintage petrol pumps on the sidewalk.

A garage like a time capsule

A close-up of a bright blue diesel pump and a vintage petrol price sign in the window of a teal-colored garage in Castletownbere.

As it turns out, there was another very photogenic garage in Castletownbere. This photo of O’Donoghue’s Garage is one of my favorite shots that I have taken all year.

A dramatic black and white photograph of O'Donoghue's Garage in Castletownbere. The image shows a large weathered canopy over old petrol pumps, a textured stone building with peeling paint, and a car being washed in the foreground.

A few more photos from Castletownbere on a sunny day

A close-up of the vibrant red wooden facade of MacCarthy’s Bar in Castletownbere. The traditional shopfront features gold lettering, black-framed windows, and a hanging pub sign against a white upper story. — One of the most famous pubs in Ireland, thanks in part to Pete McCarthy’s bestseller *McCarthy’s Bar* (the one with the "never pass a pub with your name on it" rule).

A group of colorful commercial fishing boats moored at a metal pier in Castletownbere harbor, County Cork, with their reflections shimmering in the calm blue water under a bright, cloudy sky.

The next stop on our journey around the Beara Peninsula was Ireland’s only Buddhist temple: the Dzogchen Beara Buddhist Meditation Centre. I had heard so much about it, but this was my very first visit. The location is absolutely breathtaking! While we didn't get the chance to take part in a class, we spent our time wandering the grounds and enjoying a fabulous lunch in the café, which is open to the public.

A view looking up a grassy hill toward the ornate gold and white Dzogchen Beara Buddhist Temple, framed in the foreground by tall, fluttering blue and white Tibetan prayer flags against a clear blue sky.

The views!

A wide landscape view of the rugged, brownish-green cliffs of the Beara Peninsula meeting the deep blue Atlantic Ocean under a bright sky with fluffy white clouds.

A high-angle view of steep, sunlit cliffs along the Irish coastline, with white sea foam crashing against dark rocks and a light mist rising from the water’s edge.

A few more photos of the temple

The front entrance of the Dzogchen Beara temple building, featuring traditional white walls, maroon accents, and tiered golden roofs under a bright sun.

A white building with circular windows and red trim sits perched on the edge of a grassy cliff overlooking the expansive blue ocean and distant mountains of West Cork.

And one of my personal favourites, the view from the patio outside the little cafe

Somewhere on Beara…just Beara being Beara:)

A narrow, winding asphalt road with yellow dashed lines cutting through the wild, rocky hills of the Beara Peninsula under a soft, overcast sky.

Meet the locals:)

Three sheep grazing in a bright green pasture on the Beara Peninsula, with a winding road visible in the distance between high, rocky mountain peaks.

A view looking up a steep, curving road on a rocky hillside in West Cork, framed by low stone walls and jagged, sunlit terrain.

We finished our day with a well-deserved pint of Guinness in Helen’s Bar, a little gem of a place tucked away in Kilmakilloge. Sitting right on the edge of a quiet, sheltered bay, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a plate of fresh seafood while looking out over the water… sipping on a pint.

The front view of Helen’s Bar and Café, a charming white two-story building with pink-trimmed gables and blue picnic tables out front, located in the quiet village of Kilmakilloge.

A coastal road scene in Kilmakilloge featuring a cluster of palm trees and directional signs for Lauragh and Tuosist, with wooden picnic tables and a quiet bay in the background.

Not a bad place for a pint!

A fresh pint of Guinness sitting on a weathered blue picnic table at the water's edge in Kilmakilloge, looking out over a quiet bay toward the misty mountains of the Beara Peninsula.

A wide, moody view across the still waters of Kilmakilloge Bay toward a silhouette of layered mountains, with a stone pier and a small green navigation marker visible in the foreground.

Enjoying the well deserved pint, I started to realise what it is that I love about this part of Ireland. Beara slows you down. The farmer that was in absolutely no rush this morning, the sleepy little harbour town that is Castletownbere, and then of course the Buddhist temple. Beara has an atmosphere of calm around it. Even if we only had one day here, and only got to see a tiny part of the peninsula, it was such a relaxing day, we will come back! Part two to follow soon, where we’ll be hiking in Killarney National Park and visiting the coast at Fenit.

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